If the PSU on you’re powermac g5 has gone, or you think it may have, you aren’t the only one (see macintouch forums). When I was reading around on the subject I read the failure rate is around 11%, I can’t remember the exact figure but hopefully I’ll find it again later. Luckily Apple did acknowledge the problem and has extended the warranty on the power supply, which you can claim here: Power Mac G5 Repair Extension Program for Power Supply Issues
A relatively new customer phoned us up last week in a panic, claiming his server (the powermac) had stopped working and wouldn’t even switch on. We’d recently set-up a remote backup solution for him and installed an extra internal hard drive in the powermac for local backup. I’m guessing the extra load of the hard drive took it over the edge. Needless to say he needed the server back up asap.
Phoning around we found one supplier with a spare powermac psu in stock. None of the local apple stores did and most companies sounded confused, as if I was asking a silly question. We ended up paying £150-£200 for the psu, a little on the expensive side but desperate times call for desperate measures.
I’m definitely not an expert with mac hardware and I don’t have special tools for taking apart a computer – this scared me – because everybody I spoke to or every article I read said not to change the psu yourself and to take it to a professional. My advice would probably be this too, it isn’t for the faint hearted or impatient. But if you’re up for a bit of a challenge you can’t do too much damage, read on.
Get hold of a guide to taking apart the mac, such as this one. I found a few discrepancies but it gives you a basic idea on how to remove things. To start with, remove everything. At first I tried to remove things that looked as if they would be in the way, leaving a few parts behind. Unfortunately the psu is so awkwardly positioned and large that the only way to get it out was to take out everything including the motherboard.
Having removed everything, switch over the psu and put everything back – simple. In total the changeover took about 2 hours. I used a standard toolkit but struggled with the screws for the processors because you need a very long, very thin screwdriver that will fit through the holes in the heatsink. I got by with a pear of pliers, a screwdriver bit and some brute force but it took forever.
I think as long as you keep the parts and accompanying screws separated in to the order they need to go back in the task becomes less daunting. The case on these powermacs aren’t small but then neither is the space left over. There are a lot of tightly packed components in the machine and it’s a bit of a puzzle to put back together. Good luck!
Also worth noting: When you’re finished with the broken psu most suppliers told me they’d buy it back for about £50 – worth a try.
Warning: Declaration of Social_Walker_Comment::start_lvl(&$output, $depth, $args) should be compatible with Walker_Comment::start_lvl(&$output, $depth = 0, $args = Array) in /home/customer/www/arronwoods.com/public_html/blog/wp-content/plugins/social/lib/social/walker/comment.php on line 18
Warning: Declaration of Social_Walker_Comment::end_lvl(&$output, $depth, $args) should be compatible with Walker_Comment::end_lvl(&$output, $depth = 0, $args = Array) in /home/customer/www/arronwoods.com/public_html/blog/wp-content/plugins/social/lib/social/walker/comment.php on line 42
You talk about how hard it is to remove the PSU and yet you give no instructions that may be helpful.
You tell us to get a hold of a doc that explains how to take apart a PowerMac and yet you give us not information on where to get such a document.
Do you remove the mother board first? Don’t think so, I can’t get to it at this point until I remove the PSU. So how do I remove the PSU?
That is what your site is all about.
Give me some info please. I removed the CPU’s without a problem, now I need some help with the PSu in order to continue.
Can you help me?
Please.
Gratefrully,
Donna
Hi Donna,
Sorry it has taken a while to get back to you. The post does reference one manual for taking apart the g5, it was this one: http://www.sharpeningbeneath.com/g5guide/
I’m sorry but I can’t remember whether or not you remove the motherboard. I know that both seemed to get in the way of each other and in the end it took some force to get one of them out.
I did the replacement with a colleague so I’ll ask him if he remembers.
Sorry my post couldn’t be of more help.
Cohen
You do not need to remove the motherboard. That would be a lot of extra work that is completely unnecessary. On my G5 2.7 dual water cooled, you do need to pull the processors off. remove the front fan. take the plastic front cover off the radiator. Purchase a long extension with 1/32 allen. loosen the two bolts holding front of radiator, two bolts just in back of the radiator, two outside bolts at the very back of the aluminum plate holding both processors, and the two middle bolts at the back of the aluminum plate holding the processors. These bolts do not have to be removed completely. It is a bit easier to leave them. They are on expanding pegs that hold the processor in place and center it.
Gently tug back and forth on the processor/radiator assembly. If it does not go fairly easily, check again for missed bolts. (Oh yeah, and disconnect the black wire connector)
Once the processors are removed, un bolt the two screws on the steel plate at the bottom of the case. Wiggle this plate out, which will expose the power supply.
At the bottom of the case, there will be four screws. Remove the four screws. Now disconnect all three wiring harnesses that connect to the power supply. Leaving the side of the power supply nearest the motherboard in its current position, pull the other side of the power supply so it tips at an angle. This will put just a bit of pressure on the mother board where the harnesses come out of the power supply. You should be able to pop out the clear side of the power supply out of the case.
This is easier than removing all the screws for the motherboard, and detaching all the wire harnesses going everywhere else.
This is the first time I comment here and I must say that you give genuine, and quality information for bloggers! Good job.
p.s. You have a very good template for your blog. Where have you got it from?
This advice is really going to help, thanks.
I am in this exact situation – changing out the power supply on a G5 2.5 dual water cooled, but the problem is getting the processors/radiator assembly off. I got the long allen wrenches, got all of the bolts out, and the assembly is somewhat loose, it moves around, but I simply cannot get it to come out.
Walter said, “Gently tug back and forth on the processor/radiator assembly.” How gently? I don’t want to force it, but I’m getting nowhere. Does it need to be pushed in a certain direction, like a keyhole slot arrangement? Walter mentioned “expanding pegs.” That sounds like a good straight pull would do it.
Has anyone else had a problem removing the processors – and found an answer? Thanks.
Hi Cohen,
I have two questions for you:
1) The link to the G5 guide is broken – ‘404 not found’. Would you happen to have a copy of the guide from when you accessed it?
2) What version of the G5 were you repairing? Mine is a Late 2005, but outside the 3 year extension PSU warranty offered by Apple.
I only ask as I have been left with a stripped down PowerMac G5 (late 2005) which was awaiting a replacement PSU. My colleague had removed all components & ordered the PSU, but unfortunately has suffered health issues & is on long-term sick.
I am now left with a pile of powermac, a new psu, no method of seeking assistance. I have seated the PSU in the chassis, but from what I can gather the PSU has different connectors. It has two plug connectors & two pairs of grey&black leads with flat spade connectors, which are attached to plastic fittings. These fittings sit over the system board mounting post. (Image of the psu: http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/lovemacs_2050_324267395).
I cannot locate anything from remaining pile of bits that looks like it would attach to these leads. I am reluctant to continue & install the system board with these leads sitting underneath with no apparent purpose (as of yet).
Thanks in advance
Rich
Hey Rich,
I could help you out with some pics in about a week when my new PSU arrives.
I’ve got a (late 2005) Power Mac G5 Dual-Core 2.0 gHz that I just tore apart to take the dead PSU out. This was my first time undertaking such an chore but I am fairly technical, and had little trouble pulling the old PSU out. The old one was original, but crapped out after the free replacement period ended when I added another (1TB) hard drive. It worked fine for a day before the extra load forced it to give up.
My PSU has the two pairs of black & grey leads as well… it’s a 1000W PSU, even though these are usually reserved for the Quad-Core, hence the 2 pairs of leads (I believe). Most Dual-Core machines actually take the 710W PSU, which only have one pair of leads (I believe). While the second pair of leads do attach to the logic board, it doesn’t look like they really power anything on my Dual-Core machine, while the longer of the two pair of leads clearly attaches to the logic board and the processor.
Is your machine a Quad-Core?
Anyway, I’d be more than happy to post some pics of my install once the new PSU arrives, which should be this time next week.
~Tim
Hi Tim,
I also have a late 2005 Power Mac G5 Dual Core 2.5Ghz.
mine hasnt completely died yet but it shorts out if i try to connect any firewire devices to it and it has started randomly putting itself to sleep or freezing up completely, i recently installed a 1TB drive as well. i would chuck the machine but i have an HDSDI card installed so i need it to be able to ingest footage from tape. i also need the firewire ports to work correctly.
i think its a PSU problem but im not so sure, where did you get your PSU from and would you be able to post some pics when it arrives?
is there any way i can test the PSU to see if it is faulty?
Hi Chris,
I just installed the rebuilt PSU and took plenty of pics on the install. It wasn’t what I’d call easy, but it had been a week since I pulled it apart and it took a little trial and error when hooking up the CPU unit… no biggie though. When I have a chance I’ll post some pics. I didn’t find anything on the interweb that looked identical the the insides of my machine, hence the trickiness of the job.
Anyway, I used a multi-meter to check some of the leads coming out of the PSU. Not the black and grey leads that go the the CPUs, but the snap-in connectors that plug directly into the logic board. Ground the back probe from the multi-meter and touch the red probe to either a yellow lead (from the snap-in connector) to get something like 10V or the red lead for something like 5v… I can’t remember exactly, it’s on the web somewhere. I was getting less than 1 volt. My PSU was dead.
I feel your pain… I’m an editor and need a working machine myself. I’d almost say that you problem is more of a logic board problem, but I’m not an expert on this sort of thing. If replacing the PSU didn’t fix my machine (it did!), then I was looking at replacing the whole machine as you mentioned. I was getting no power and just a click sound with a red LED flash when I tried to boot up. No fan noise, nothing… worth noting that my machine’s serial number is included in Apple’s Power Supply Replacement program, which ends 3 years after purchase, about 6 months too late for me, but did point to the likely culprit.
I got my rebuilt PSU from http://www.dttservice.com/rma.html in CA. Far and away the best price… $145 + $50 core +$10 ship. way better that $300-$400 everywhere else, new or rebuilt. Got to run for now, I’ll check this thread a bit later…
-Tim
Chris,
The more I think about it, the more it does sound like a power supply issue. The firewire issue is a little strange, but power supply issues can do mighty strange things that don’t necessarily point to the power supply. I’m not sure the multimeter method of testing makes since if the PSU is not under load, however. I’m not an electrician, so YMMV…
The simple fact that your problems kicked in when you added the additional internal HD (assuming the drive is seated/connected properly-important) is a big indicator that the PSU is indeed the culprit.
I did the usual troubleshooting stuff… reseating of internal drives, pulling all of the additional RAM, reseated the stock RAM, replaced the little battery under the RAM, pushed the little button to the right of the battery to reset the SMU. It wouldn’t boot up at all, so “zapping” the PRAM was not an option. If I were you I’d try that as well since you can boot up. A bad video card can cause havoc as well, borrow one from someone, swap it out (an easy job) and see if that fixes it. Hopefully that isn’t it, video cards are as pricy as logic boards for some reason.
After doing the above stuff with no success, I concluded that it had to be either the PSU or the logic(mother) board. $700-$900 + labor for a logic board or $300-$400 + labor for a PSU made me think about simply replacing the whole machine… but discovering DT&T Service made that decision much easier. Once I return my core (old PSU) with their return label, my out-of-pocket will be a paltry $155 USD… and yes it works great as I type this out on my freshly home repaired G5!
Hey Tim,
Would you be able to post those pics of your tear-down/rebuild? I’m having a heck of a time getting mine back together, got too excited on tear-down and didn’t separate everything so well 🙂
Thanks!
-Sean
Hey Tim, did you ever post pics?
Thanks
Tim
I very carefully removed the PS from my G5 Dual 2.0 (Late 2005) and replaced it with a new one. The original PS was the 1k watt for the G5 Quad-Core (Late 2005) which has two processor power terminals to accommodate the G5 Quad while the one I replaced it with has only one. I do understand that these two PS’s are interchangeable on the G5 Dual (but obviously not on the G5 Quad).
I do get a Yellow & Red diagnostic LED when I remove the air deflector indicating that trickle power & main power are ok.However, when I press the power button absolutely nothing happens. It has been suggested that this is due to A). Bad power cord B). Loose bus bar screws C). Poorly seated processor D). Loose processor mounting screws E). Poorly seated front panel board F). and finally a bad logic board.
I have checked everything and all seems tight & well seated. I would like to know how to go about diagnosing the logic board ?
Does anyone know if anything else would cause the startup failure? Unless the PS fried the logic board when it failed I don’t understand what could have happened. After the failure there wasno smoke, no scorched parts, no smell of burnt metal, there was just a very loud bang & then nothing.
Something that does really bother me is that the Diagnostic LED’s are not located to the left of the upper DIMM’s slots as described by Apple but rather are tucked away somewhere. They are visible when on but just not where they should be.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
I found a manual.
http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/images/dmm/powermac_g5.pdf
That manual does clear a few things up and it pretty much shows how to tear apart a single processor G5 but It doesn’t show me how to even remove the processor cover on my dual 1.8 that appears to have a dead PSU.
It’s great that you found it though!
There are tons of youtube videos on how to tear apart laptops but I am struggling trying to find any serious service info on G5’s!
I too have a G5 powermac twin core 2Ghz which refuses to boot. The fans all come on but the light on the power button blinks 3 times indicating bad RAM and I get the message ‘No Signal’ on the VDU screen. Anyone have any idea if it is the PSU or the logic board that is at fault.
The covers of the processors are secured with four plastic clips which you can either push the cover in one direction to unclip or slide in a flat bladed screw driver and gently push the clip to release it. Be very careful as they break very easily.
I have a G5 powermac 2.5ghz quad core with a dead psu. Apple retailer said its outside the 3year extended service fix. I got the excellent instructions for dismantling the mac and dont think i’ll have any problems there. I also have G5PM dual core that is dead with a fried processor i think. Can i use the dual core PSU and put it in the Quad core? I know the quad has to have 1kw but i dont know yet whats in the dual core. I have a feeling its no good as the power cables are different. The quad has the newer square female plug and the dual has the older style with the 45deg corners if you know what i mean.
I was hoping this would save me buying any parts and i can get one good mac out of two door stops.
any advice
Thanks Andy for the link to the Service Source PDF. I was desperately looking for this. I have a problem with the fans on the PSU. They make noisy weird sound wich drives me crazy after a while so I have to replace them. This manual helps me with this I hope. Thanks from the Netherlands to you all bloggers. Great website!
dinosaur41
I just replaced my PSU myself this morning (Mac G5 dual 1.8). It’s not highly simple to get it out, but you can do it yourself with some patience and complete information. I had a tech manual pdf on how to do it, but they even left out a couple of important things which I figured out on my own, but not easily. Like you need to take out the bottom two torx screws from the screwstands after removing the bottom processor, even though the instructions say to leave them all in; and foreward-most cable connecting the PSU to the motherboard needs to be pushed as far forward as possible with the PSU while angling it out. There is really no extra millimeter of space to remove the thing without these two steps.
Anyway, I was really happy that I found a relatively inexpensive replacement PSU, though it took two weeks to arrive, but then after only a few hours of happiness, the G5 just shut down while I was working and restarted automatically. Anyone else have this problem, and/or know what the causes/solutions might be?
Thanks in advance,
Keith
I just recently had to change my power suppy unit. And I did it in 15 mins. it was pretty easy. The one thing I love about mac.
I have an issue with a Pmac G5 1.6Ghz. The power cuts out after short periods of time, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes up to half an hour. The apple display color is distorted with a purple tint but with a HDTV plugged into the other slot the image is perfect. Not sure if PSU or videocard. Any ideas?
Thanks Andy for the link to the G5 manual!!!
Does anyone know how to replace the fuse in the Power Supply 600w for a powermac G5 2.5 ghz? And what kind of fuse does it take. Or is it just better to buy a refurbished one.
And by the way, I didn’t find it all that hard to take everything out, I used the fixit site and that seemed to help.
Hi all,
I can confirm that it is possible to replace the PSU of a quad WITHOUT taking the motherboard out. Here’s how:
1) remove the cpu cover (the metal cover that says G5). It’s a bit of a pain as you have to push fown the small plastic rivet that holds it into place
2) remove front cpu fan
3) remove front cpu fan adapter
4) remove pcie cards
5) remove rear cpu fan
6) remove the liquid cooling system power cables
7) remove cpu (see the documentation by ifixit if you’re unsure, it’s nicely detailed)
8) remove cpu power cable screws and put the power cables and plastic bits that normallw go underneath the CPU away
9) remove metal metal CPU holder bar
10) disconnect PSU motherboard cables
10) remove PSU cover by unscrewing the 2x 8mm screws on it (one is hidden underneath the CPU mat designed to collect any fluid in the case of a leak), you will have to lift the plastic sheet that is glued to the PSU
11) remove the 4x 8mm screws underneath the powermac case
12) remove the bottom screw that was used to hold the metal CPU holder bar
13) remove the 9 round screws holding the PSU to the motherboard
14) slide the PSU gently towards the front of the computer by one notch or so (so that the round screw holes are offset by 1 notch or so). It won’t go any further. You won’t damage anything by doing that, there are no ICs between those holes and further down.
15) Sit down with the computer lying flat, and its top facing you. Tilt the PSU towards you as much as you can. It won’t come out without using some sort of leverage against the case (it’s nearly as if apple planned this so that you have to go to the apple store if removing the motherboard sounds daunting, which it is). You can use a flathead screwdriver to slightly bend the case and force it through. It will come out.
16) perform the exact reverse operation to fit a new one back in. Take your time to reassemble everything. It works, the one I just repaired using that technique is on next to me at the moment and running cool. Job done, you’ve saved yourself at least 3 hours of work by not having to take the MB out and back in again. At least that’s what it took me when I replaced the motherboard on a quad. And it’s definitely not risk free, I did damage one once, there’s barely any space to get it out with all the PSU wires and you are thus likely to scratch some onboard components. At any rate, this method is quicker and far safer. Good luck!